Sunday 8 April 2012

Goodbye and thank you New Zealand!

Hello from Oamaru! A sleepy little fishing town about 3 hours outside of Christchurch. Tonight is our last night in Pirate, as tomorrow we’ll arrive in Christchurch and probably stay in a motel for our last night in NZ. It’s hard to believe that our NZ touring leg is nearly over. It’s been 3 weeks of absolutely magnificent scenery, spectacular driving freedom and a really special camper vanning experience. Lets just say, Andrea and I have spent enough quality time to last a lifetime! We’ve traversed this country, and yet still there is so much more to see. Thank you NZ, you’ve been really special. But a little back tracking to catch up on what we’ve been up to….

We left Hokatiki and headed for the Franz Josef glacier. You can walk up to 500 meters of the glacial face. Hard to describe the scene, but the white-blue tinge of the ice and the brown stark rock are absolutely breathe taking. And the size is amazing, and the you realise that it moves all the time – mind blowning. From there we did a walk around the iconic Lake Matheson and got the calendar picture of Mount Cook reflected in the water. That night we slept in a camp without electricity. It was amazing to sip our Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc, watch the sun set over Lake Paringa, and then go to bed at 8pm! Life’ pleasures are actually pretty simple.

The next day it was on to the town of Wanaka, where we took a 45 minute scenic flight over the glaciers to the fiord of Milford Sound, and then caught a fiord cruise. I had never been in a Cessna plane before (a four seater) and the air journey was a brilliant way to see the glaciers and the fiords from a perspective you can’t really get from ground-level. We really liked Wanaka, and so spent two nights there, in the absolute comfort of a self-catering motel apartment. I nearly cried for joy at the sight of a proper bath! Don’t get me wrong, I have loved pirate, but to get up and walk outside to the loo in the middle of the night gets old pretty quickly! Good food, good wine and great walking country in Wanaka, well worth the two days.

After that we spent a day in Queenstown, and then a night in Invercargill, which is right at the Southern most tip of the South Island. This kicked off a few days for us in the very rural and rugged area of the Catlins. There was no electricity in these parts of NZ until 1960, and the scenery is a mix of pastoral land on steep rocky cliffs, jet-blue seas, outcrops of fishing villages and really salt-of-the earth towns people. We were out of mobile phone range for a while, so great to get back into reception and get the text that our friends Fiona and Dave were engaged! We may be back in NZ before we know it J

We ended the Catlins leg in Dunedin, where we spend two nights. Our luck with the weather seemed to run out, with mist and fog coming in. They call Dunedin ‘Scotland in New Zealand’. The town looks and feels very similar to Edinburgh and there is a big student community there too. The weather is also pretty rubbish a lot of the time! The definite highlight was attending the Stormers vs Highlanders rugby game, as part of the super 15 series. We were probably the only 2 Stormers supporters in a sea of NZ rugby fanatics, but hey, you gotta storm saam! Then today we left Dunedin and made our way along the east coast to the little village of Moeraki. The Moerake boulders are an amazing rock formation on the beach, looking like massive concrete bowling balls. There are over 60 million years old and are totally naturally formed. There we had a phenomenal seafood lunch at Fleurs place, with fresh bluff oysters and salty fish, downed with crisp white wine overlooking the sea – and the weather was back on sides again today, so the sunshine was a perfect addition. Then it was on to Oamaru, which is where I am writing this from, and time to make our last braai supper (perfect NZ lamb chops!)

So tomorrow we will head for Christchurch and probably just check out the city. Should be interesting to walk through the red zone and see the damage an earth quake can really do. We spend tomorrow night there, and then catch a flight to Singapore on Tuesday morning. I think both of us will be sad to say goodbye to Pirate….you can imagine the sailing ship analogies that have gone on for the last 3 weeks! But she has been a hardy old schooner and has seen us through many storms….ok, ok, I’ll stop.

We arrive back in London on Wednesday morning, and have a week there until we head for South Africa. Hard to believe that we last saw old London town back in January. Our nearly 3 months of being on the move is over. New Zealand has been incredible, and I can’t recommend it as a holiday destination highly enough. It’s got sea, mountains, adventure, cool cities…basically something for everyone. And above all, it’s a beautiful place with really down to earth, friendly people. You have to come if you can – and get yourself a pirate!

I may blog from time to time when we are in SA – just to make sure I keep a record of how we’re spending our time, even if it’s not that exciting! Thanks for keeping us with us over this leg of our travels. Keep reading, because there are more adventures and cool destination to come. Hope to see everyone, wherever they may be very soon!
xxxx

Saturday 31 March 2012

Unexpected South Island sunshine

Good morning from a sun-bathed Hokatiki! This place usually gets up to 4 meters of rain per year and is not known for its great weather, but somehow we have managed to be here for a the last few days of blue skies and warm sun of summer....good timing hey?

So we've been on the road for about 10 days, and have crossed via ferry from Norht to South Island. We really enjoyed our last few days on North Island, and did a walking (read 'can drink all you like') wine tour of Martinborough and a very full day of touring Wellington. The thing about camper vanning in NZ is that the facilities are just so good, it really makes finding a camp and getting sorted for the night totally manageable, even for amateurs like us. So we've been staying in a different place every night, and usually doing about 3 -5 hours of driving a day, although some days have been less. We've had some awesome BBQ's, just watching the sunset and drinking our wine. We've stopped at several farmer's markets along the route we're travelling, and so have been able to stock up with amazing fresh food. Lets just say, the Christodoulous are not hungry on this trip!

So in Wellington, we boarded the ferry and did the 4 hour cross over. We spent our first night on South Island in Marlborough (more wine country) and did some more touring there too. By now, we have over 10 bottles of wine in the van, and less than 10 nights left in NZ- you do the math! Apart from eating and drinking, we've also done some spectacular early morning walks, so we are trying to balance it out.

After Marlborough, we headed down the East Coast and stopped along the way. The furthest south we got on the east coast was a seaside town of Kaikoura. We experienced a real highlight there. We got going pretty early in the morning, and found a small sign for the Ohau stream. Here a stream flows from a mountain waterfall into the sea, and each year baby seal pups find their way from their mothers to the stream, to come play and frolick while their mom's fish or sleep. So we walked on a path for a few minutes through the forest, and suddenly we see this stream, and there are over 50 baby seals playing right in front of us! It was magical, one of those moments you had to pinch yourself. Kaikoura also provided us with a spectacular 11km hike and amazing ocean views, as well as a brilliant roadside seafood feast!

South Island is long and thin, so from Kaikoura, we decided to cross over the island and start travelling on the West coast. So yesterday we drove the Arthur's pass, which traverses the island, and stopped to do a short walk in the forrest en route. The scenery is spectacular...think green forrests and steep snow-capped mountains with black soil. Really makes the driving so rewarding, and the stops we've done in between, either to walk, or have something to eat or check out a site in a little town, have broken up the journey really well. So we arrived in Hokatiki yesterday and had a glass of white wine on the beach as the sun went down! It was a good day :) Today we will make our way further along the coast to the Franz Josef Glacier, and hopefully do a helicopter tour. Not sure how many days we'll spend there - thank goodness we stocked up on warm clothes when we were in Wellington!

So the adventure continues. I think the best thing about this portion of our trip is that because we have no bookings and no firm itinery, we really feel free. Our little Pirate has everything we need and the road is at our command! Ok, getting a bit dramatic here, but you get the picture! Will write again in a few days.

xxxx

Saturday 24 March 2012

Ahoy, the Pirate's adventure has begun!

Hello everyone

I started writing this blog the day before yesterday, but had not managed to get it uploaded. Internet connection around rural NZ is a little harder to come by! Right now, its just after 6pm and we’ve arrived in Martinborough (great wine country). Last night, we were nestled in our camper van, parked next to the beach, with the rain pounding on the roof. Yesterday we had a fabulous seafood dinner, and before that, did a brilliant walking tour through the art deco town of Napier. It was demolished by an earthquake in 1931, and was then totally rebuilt. But this is what I originally wrote 2 days ago just to catch you up on our New Zealand adventure so far….
I am sitting on a deck chair in the late afternoon sun, sipping my new -world Pinot Noir at our first campsite – yes, it’s New Zealand! Today is the first day of our camper vanning adventure. We picked up our rental van which is brightly graffit’d all over and is called ‘Pirate’! I’ll leave you to imagine what the graphics are. Needless to say, Andrea has been calling me ‘first mate’ all day! We’re just outside Rotorua, which is actually a pretty big town, made popular by its thermal springs and abundance of adventure sport activities. The drive from Auckland took us about 4 hours, and it was really smooth sailing all the way. Tomorrow we’ll head for Napier, which is known as the art deco architecture capital of the world. But first, let me back track a bit.

 So we left Sydney to the fanfare of our friend Sandy (who we were staying with) giving birth to a beautiful new baby boy, Jethro Isaac Sampaio. It was amazing to be part of this little angel’s entrance to the world, and to see what labouring in the real sense is like. If I was broody before, consider me cured. We caught a flight to Auckland, and arrived just before 1am on Tuesday morning. We spent Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday exploring Auckland, and enjoying the comforts of our mate Dave’s hospitality. A few things to say about the city, which is NO New Zealand’s capital….something I didnt know!

It’s very cool. Loads of retro and vintage clothing outlets and plenty hip bars and restaurants. This city acts bigger than it is. But at the same time, Auckland is surrounded by natural beauty and the people have a friendliness that makes it an easy and enticing place to navigate. As always, we first walked the central CBD flat and just soaked up the city vibe. On the Wednesday we caught a 40 minute ferry to Waiheke island for some exploring and wine tasting. I absolutely heart NZ wine – and we have had a lot of wine all over the world. We also did the Auckland museum, which houses a spectacular collection of Maori and broader Pacific artwork. It also explains the history of the country and its links back to Great Britain. Interesting to know that many New Zealanders signed up to fight in SA during the Anglo-Boer war I also found out that NZ has only been inhabited for 1000 years and that the first people came all the way from Indonesia, crossing the dangerous pacific, in wood boats! Mind blowing. The respect and acknowledgement of indigenous Maori heritage and culture is really good in NZ, and Maori people are really well integrated into broader society, something which contrasts to Australia. On Thursday night we had a delicious dinner out with our hosts at a local restaurant called Red Brick, and then got ready to say goodbye to Auckland, and the ‘home comforts’ for a while.

So this morning we picked up our camper van and got driving! Initially I wasn’t so sure, but after a few hours of cruising in Pirate, I am pretty at home. There is a gas cooker and barbecue in the back, a cooler box and a set of table and chairs. The seats fold down to make a bed, and the linen provided is of pretty good quality. You also get the necessities like crockery, a light, power source, utensils, a heater etc. The sound system is good – I tested this singing along to ‘Classic Hits radio’! Read Phil Collins and George Michael.

In terms of determining routes, we have now purchased have about 20 sources of maps, info and other recommendations (you can’t say the Christodoulou’s aren’t prepared!). NZ is so well geared for touring – everywhere has roadside cafés, motor homing sites, motels etc. – so I think my fears of being stuck in the middle of nowhere without a shower are not founded. That said, we are determined to save costs by staying at the cheaper tourism department camping sites, and many of those don’t have hot water! At the moment, we’re still on North Island, but in a couple of days, we’ll put the van on the ferry and cross over to South Island. That’s where the scenery gets spectacular. The weather is gorgeous at the moment, but a bit like CT, its four seasons in one day here.

So so far so good. It’s amazing that some people wait their whole lives to have a little adventure, and here we are, doing it and living it. Feel so privileged and in some ways, proud of the choices we have made. Anyway, the wine beckons and Andrea is about to put my NZ rump steak on the barbie…Let the NZ adventure begin! Will write soon from another stop in a few days time!
xxxx

Thursday 15 March 2012

G'day from down under

Hi everyone
So the sky is jet blue and the sun is shining...we're off to Bondi beach for a swim and then to grab a burger for lunch....it can only be beautiful Australia! Not to sound too gushing, but I am really loving this place. Its the combination of the gorgeous cities, the friendly people and I think the joys of the Western world once more! This is first-world living at its best, with the lifestyle and climate to match.

So we arrived in Sydney last week Tuesday morning, and were blissfully met at the airport by my good friend Hugo. Made a nice change from battling trains and taxi's as we have done for the last while! Its been so nice to stay in a home and just enjoy the little comforts of tv on a couch and cereal in the morning. We've really explored Sydney and have been quite brave in using the buses as well as driving ourselves around - sometimes sans GPS! We've taken the time to relax, and had some glorious days on the beach, both in Manly and at Nielsen Park. The water is really clean and refreshing, you can totally see why there is such a big 'picnic on the beach' culture here. Although Andrea did have a nasty incident with a vicious red on one of our picnics - so I guess it hasn't all been plain sailing!:)

Sydney is really a first-world city. Beautiful on a geographic level and really well organised.We've also had time to catch up with friends, which after months of Andrea and I looking at each other every night for dinner, has been most welcome! The food has also been fab. The sushi is of phenomenal quality, and we got to sample some great combinations at Tokomomo on a night out with mates. And the first time I sunk my teeth into a proper 100% beef burger, I nearly cried. There is just only so much noodles and stir-fry you can take! Also, the Aussie wine is great and plentiful, been so nice to try some different stuff and there are loads of very chic wine bars all over the city.

In terms of sightseeing, we've seen the classics (harbour bridge, opera house, botanic gardens, darling harbour etc) and also just soaked up some of the different suburbs in the city. The Rocks is an old part of Sydney, which has loads of character and a great place to people watch. The Queen Mary is currently docked in the harbour! Loved the NSW art gallery and the Sydney Museum really helped us understand the early days of the country, and the history of friction between the early settlers and the indigenous people. Having done all of that, I think that really, Sydney is about enjoying the beaches and the lifestyle - not really its cultural sights. You can't help but smile when you drive over the bridge and the harbour is full of sailing boats on a sunny day - it just does seem a little too perfect!

Then the last 4 days, we've been in Melbourne, which is a 1,5 hr flight from Sydney. I guess Sydney is like the JHB of Aus, much more flash and 'try hard'. Melbourne is kind of like the CT/PE blend. Just more authentically cool and comfortable in its own skin. Its not as beautiful as Sydney but it has plenty heart. We spent our time walking the city flat, and getting out to the outer suburbs. Again, perfect weather made it easy to just be out and about all the time. There was also a major buzz, as its the F1 Aussie gran prix this coming weekend (bring it home Mark, as they say!)

The city centre is well known for its acceptance of graffiti street art and its cool little cafe's in tiny alleys. We spent many hours just people-watching and experiencing what it's like to be part of the scene there. One of the evenings we went to a tapas bar/restuarant for dinner - unbelievable food. If you're ever in Melbourbe, go to Bar Lourindha! Another highlight for us was the Immigration Museum. Melbourne is home to very large immigrant communities, including plenty of Greeks! Our last night's meal of slow-cooked lamb and Spetses-style sword fish was testament to the strong Greek heritage and not-to-mention the Greek brilliant cuisine that is there! The museum was a fascinating insight into the process and history of migrants to Australia, as well as how the social and cultural landscape has been shaped by these different groups. We also saw a William Kentridge exhibition at Federation Square, which was brilliant. Felt quite proud to be South African! It was also great to see friends in Melbourne who have immigrated there, and understand from them what life is like - you can totally understand why South Africans come here and why in some respects, its a good fit.

So now we're back in Sydney, and will spend the weekend here. On Monday evening, we fly to New Zealand, for 3 weeks of campervan touring (Lord help me!), wine tasting and beautiful scenery. Australia has been a soothing salve of western comforts and home-cooked meals (thanks Hugs and Sandy), and to have all that while exploring two amazing Aussie citites, has been phenomenal. As I said to Andrea, if it wasn't on the opposite end of the world to all the people I love, I would seriously live here! Am sure its not really, but at face value, for the last 2 weeks, it's been paradise! So glad we came.

Will blog soon from some where in the NZ countryside.

xxxx

Sunday 4 March 2012

Crazy about Cambodia

Hi everyone,
Been a while since I last wrote, so sorry if this ends up being a bit of a long one, but the updates about Cambodia are worth it! The synopsis is that if you can ever travel to this beautiful kingdom, with its amazing ancient history and its recent historical tragedies - you should! Cambodia is a magical place, and its people and history are enchanting.

So after leaving Vietnam behind, we arrived at Siem Reap airport (pronounced seeum reeup) at 9pm in the evening, and the heat hit us like a wall. Cambodia is basically a jungle zone, so the humidity is incredible. Even our driver commented how hot it was! Siem Reap is a small town, which has been plucked from obscurity because of the ancient Khmer temples which are dotted all around it. The most famous is of course Angkor Wat, but there are so many more. We spent four nights in Siem Reap, and aside from our temple excursions, we enjoyed some great downtime by the pool, and just soaked up the town atmosphere. You have to get going early to see thetemple  sites, because temple gazing at 40 degrees celcius is not fun. So we had a few early starts...one of our most memorable moments was arriving at Ta Prohm at 5:30am, and walking through the almost-dark jungle to get to the ruin. All we could hear was the jungle sounds coming alive as the sky went pink and we had one of the world's great sights to ourselves. Amazing. Angkor Wat was also phenomenal, but the experience was less magical - just more tourists and so vast that you can't really take it all in. But you have to see the size and detail of these amazing temples (of which really very little is known) to fully appreciate their grandeur.

One of the other highlights of our time in Siem Reap was going to hear Dr Richner play the cello and talk about his life-changing medical work for the kids of Cambodia. We had heard about his paediatric hospitals (5 dotted around the country) from other travellers, and he plays his cello twice a week to create awareness and pull some donations from the tourists. Today, his hospitals cover 85% of all the healthcare needs of Cambodian children, and are 90% funded by private donations. That gives you a sense of how poor the government provided health care is. The reason for this is two fold - firstly the Khmer Rouge obliterated the infrastructure and murdered most of the Cambodian doctors, so since 1979, the country has really had to start from zero. Also, as Dr Richner says, the policies and practices prescribed by the WHO and other western bodies just dont make sense for a really poor country like Cambodia, and the kids are suffering for it. Its really worth looking up more info on the Dr and his work - we were truly touched.

The Cambodian people are also fascinating. Mainly orginating from the Khmer people (who came from India) they are beautiful looking, and very friendly. Although Siem Reap throngs with tourists, we felt less harassed there, and more able to be open and friendly with the locals. The kids are also really cute...round faces, dark eyes and clearly doted on by parents and extended family. We also had some great Khmer food...cuisine in its own right.

So after Siem Reap, we caught a boat to Phnom Penh, where we spent 2 nights. The capital is really pretty, with wide roads, paved on either sides with lots of trees and greenery. Clearly the French colonial influence meant that the architecture and city lay-out were all aesthetically pleasing. There are very few high-rises, and most of the buildings are painted a shade of yellow. The Royal Palace is the heart of the city and creates a magnifcent backdrop. On our first night, we strolled around and along the river. In the evenings people can join outdoor aerobics classes, and we loved watching them shaking it to the latest Cambodian pop music.

The next day we headed straight for Tuol Sleng Prison, which is now the genocide museum. The Khmer Rouge were meticulous about record keeping, so there are literally thousands of pictures of people who passed through the prison, en route to the Killing fields. Of the 20 000 people who entered the prison, only 7 survived. We met one of those survivors at the prison - hard to know what to say to a person who has been through that kind of trauma. The devastation and absolute barbary that the Khmer Rouge regime unleashed on the population of Cambodia is hard to describe, and to think that is was so recent, 1975 - 1979. You cant help feeling that the museum in some ways doesnt do justice to the history. So disturbing but really worth seeing.

More sight seeing around Phnom Penh (Royal Palace, National museum) brought us to the end of our 2 days there, and 4 days ago we caught a bus down to the coast, to the sleepy town of Kep, which is where I am writing this from. Kep used to be the holiday retreat town for the French generals, so on the hillside overlooking the sea are the most beautiful villas, which the Khmer Rouge torched. Today, there are a few hotels and resorts, but mainly its a local's place with day trippers and family weekenders from the surrounds. So we've spent the last 4 days lying at the pool, chilling on the beach, eating the most delicious crab and just soaking up this tropical paradise. Its been a really awesome way to enjoy up our last few days of SE Asia before we head for Australia.

Hard to put into words what the last 6 weeks have done for my understanding and mental model of what Asia is all about. Its been a beautiful mix of learning, experiencing and being suprised by it all - so glad we came. Am sure we'll be back at some point. Have loved it all.

Will check in again from down under! :)

xxxx
Noogs

Thursday 23 February 2012

From the back streets of Hoi An to the bright lights of Ho Chi Minh city

Hi everyone,
We're in Ho Chi Minh city (formerly Saigon). Its hot and humid, but we're pretty welcoming of the heat, after the rain and grey in Hue. The city is beautiful, with lots of French colonial buildings and plenty of green spaces. The French did leave some great town planning and atmosphere behind. The city is busy and frenetic but more manageable than Hanoi. Lots of cafe's and places for respite, never mind the amazing French restaurants. But just to catch you up on the last week or so...

We arrived safely in Hoi An - just like Hue, it was cold and very wet on that first day. But luckily things brightened up a little the next two days, so we were able to get out and about during our time there. Hoi An used to be a thriving trading city, with lots of Chinese, Japanese and Vietnamese influences. These days its a very touristic place, but because of the preservation of the architecture, it retains a great charm and we spent most of our time strolling along the backstreets or having some local fare along the river. There are loads of tailors, who can make you up a custom-made dress or suit in 24 hours - the artisanal work is amazing. I had a pair of shoes hand-made for me! We also did a day trip to the My Son ruins, which is a conglomeration of Champa temples, bombed badly during the American invasion. We also had some great meals, one of which at a restuarant called 'Streets' which gives street kids a place to attain vocational training. All in all, Hoi An turned out to be a great little lay-over and although it teems with tourists, it was worth the 3 nights we spent there.

So after Hoi An, we flew on to Ho Chi Minh city. So far, we've walked the place flat and have seen some really good museums. The War Remnants museum was so interesting, although really uncomfortable to see the pictures of war. Makes you feel so sad for such a non-sensical loss of humanity. The Reunification Palace was also great - built in the 1960's, its a brilliant piece of art deco architecture. Seen the Botnical Gardens, the zoo and a couple of other things. We've had some great food too, not least of all, the mediterranean wraps and salads we found at Au Parc. Last night, we had a cocktail on the roof of the Majestic hotel - Saigon is stunning by night. Tonight we're probably going to head to a jazz club and probably grab some noodles (but not in that order!). Tomorrow we catch an evening flight to Siem Reap in Cambodia, so this stint wraps up our time in Vietnam. Its been such a cool country to visit, full of contradictions and such rich recent history. I am so glad we travelled North to South, think its the right way to move through this beautiful place.

So next up, Cambodia. Apparently, it's likely to be 35 degrees, so I am bracing myself for ruin-visiting in that weather! Oh, and facebook is banned here, so hopefully we will be back online when we get to Siem Reap. Missing everyone back home!

Talk soon
xxx
Noogy

Friday 17 February 2012

Ha Long Bay and Hue

Hi all
I am writing from a grey, wet Hue. Bit of a change from the non-stop sunshine of Laos! We've just had 2 nights here, and are about to catch the train to Hoi An. So just catch you up on the last week or so...

As Andrea mentioned, Hanoi was madness. Such an impressionable place, but not exactly enjoyable. On our last night there we went to see a water pupper theatre show which was brilliant. The puppet movements are so realistic, and even though it was a bit touristy, it was a real must-see. The evening was also enhanced by the fact that we gave into our Western taste cravings and enjoyed some burgers before the show....red meat never tasted so good. I cant say I was sorry to say goodbye to Hanoi, but am so glad to have seen it. Vietnam is a place that has known a lot of turmoil and pain, and it shows in the population - no more so than in Hanoi.

The next morning we were collected by shuttle bus to be taken to Ha Long bay for our 2 night cruise around this eighth wonder of the world. We laughed at the fact that all the other passengers were getting collected from swanky hotels - not the christodoulous! :) After a 4 hour drive we got to the coast and boarded the boat. It was called The Valentine, and it was Valentine's day! Andrea tried to sell the roses and chocolates on our bed as a special gift from him, to me and all the other ladies on teh cruise!!!

The boat is a junk with old fashioned sails and wood decking everywhere. Really beautiful. We had a bit of unexpected sunshine on that afternoon, and so the beauty of the limestone rocks coming out of the sea was really spectacular. The cruise was really luxurious, and we befriended some nice fellow travellers. Lets just say they were a little older and more genteel - but great company and nice for us to have some good wine and a bit of pampering. We watched the movie 'The Quiet American' while on board, its a great visiual piece for anyone who wants to get a feel for what Indochina was like, during French colonial times.

After two nights, we came back to Hanoi from Ha Long for an hour or two and then hopped on a plane to Hue. Only an hour or so flight, but we are now officially sick of airports! The touchdown at Hue airport, in the pouring rain, was less than smoothe...when those wheels smacked the tarmac I really thoguht we were done for! Anyway, got collected at the airport, but not before having a chuckle that of course, the only people making a scene and delaying everyones' collection of luggage was a gaggling bunch of Greeks! The same everywhere you go ;)

So we've been in Hue for the last day and a bit. Its been a real shame about the weather, because had it been better, its obvious that Hue is a really pretty little town, with lots to see and loads of places to stroll. But walking around with wind blowing rain into your face just isnt fun, so I'd be lying if I said we'd had a brilliant time. But I guess thats travelling, it cant always be perfect. That said, last night we had a great Indian curry and after a few beers, it doesnt all seem so bad. I am craving some warm weather now, not least of all because I am running out of warmer clothes and am starting to look pretty much the same in every pic! Here's hoping that as we move further South, things brighten up a little.

So train now to Hoi An - takes about 2 hours. And then we'll spend 3 night there. Its a UNESCO world heritage sight, so should be interesting. And at least will give us a chance to catch our breathe and do washing. After that, its off to Ho Chi Minh city (Saigon), where I am sure we'll blog from again, if not sooner.

Thanks for reading, and you can be sure we are missing all our friends,
xxx