Hi everyone,
We're in Ho Chi Minh city (formerly Saigon). Its hot and humid, but we're pretty welcoming of the heat, after the rain and grey in Hue. The city is beautiful, with lots of French colonial buildings and plenty of green spaces. The French did leave some great town planning and atmosphere behind. The city is busy and frenetic but more manageable than Hanoi. Lots of cafe's and places for respite, never mind the amazing French restaurants. But just to catch you up on the last week or so...
We arrived safely in Hoi An - just like Hue, it was cold and very wet on that first day. But luckily things brightened up a little the next two days, so we were able to get out and about during our time there. Hoi An used to be a thriving trading city, with lots of Chinese, Japanese and Vietnamese influences. These days its a very touristic place, but because of the preservation of the architecture, it retains a great charm and we spent most of our time strolling along the backstreets or having some local fare along the river. There are loads of tailors, who can make you up a custom-made dress or suit in 24 hours - the artisanal work is amazing. I had a pair of shoes hand-made for me! We also did a day trip to the My Son ruins, which is a conglomeration of Champa temples, bombed badly during the American invasion. We also had some great meals, one of which at a restuarant called 'Streets' which gives street kids a place to attain vocational training. All in all, Hoi An turned out to be a great little lay-over and although it teems with tourists, it was worth the 3 nights we spent there.
So after Hoi An, we flew on to Ho Chi Minh city. So far, we've walked the place flat and have seen some really good museums. The War Remnants museum was so interesting, although really uncomfortable to see the pictures of war. Makes you feel so sad for such a non-sensical loss of humanity. The Reunification Palace was also great - built in the 1960's, its a brilliant piece of art deco architecture. Seen the Botnical Gardens, the zoo and a couple of other things. We've had some great food too, not least of all, the mediterranean wraps and salads we found at Au Parc. Last night, we had a cocktail on the roof of the Majestic hotel - Saigon is stunning by night. Tonight we're probably going to head to a jazz club and probably grab some noodles (but not in that order!). Tomorrow we catch an evening flight to Siem Reap in Cambodia, so this stint wraps up our time in Vietnam. Its been such a cool country to visit, full of contradictions and such rich recent history. I am so glad we travelled North to South, think its the right way to move through this beautiful place.
So next up, Cambodia. Apparently, it's likely to be 35 degrees, so I am bracing myself for ruin-visiting in that weather! Oh, and facebook is banned here, so hopefully we will be back online when we get to Siem Reap. Missing everyone back home!
Talk soon
xxx
Noogy
Thursday, 23 February 2012
Friday, 17 February 2012
Ha Long Bay and Hue
Hi all
I am writing from a grey, wet Hue. Bit of a change from the non-stop sunshine of Laos! We've just had 2 nights here, and are about to catch the train to Hoi An. So just catch you up on the last week or so...
As Andrea mentioned, Hanoi was madness. Such an impressionable place, but not exactly enjoyable. On our last night there we went to see a water pupper theatre show which was brilliant. The puppet movements are so realistic, and even though it was a bit touristy, it was a real must-see. The evening was also enhanced by the fact that we gave into our Western taste cravings and enjoyed some burgers before the show....red meat never tasted so good. I cant say I was sorry to say goodbye to Hanoi, but am so glad to have seen it. Vietnam is a place that has known a lot of turmoil and pain, and it shows in the population - no more so than in Hanoi.
The next morning we were collected by shuttle bus to be taken to Ha Long bay for our 2 night cruise around this eighth wonder of the world. We laughed at the fact that all the other passengers were getting collected from swanky hotels - not the christodoulous! :) After a 4 hour drive we got to the coast and boarded the boat. It was called The Valentine, and it was Valentine's day! Andrea tried to sell the roses and chocolates on our bed as a special gift from him, to me and all the other ladies on teh cruise!!!
The boat is a junk with old fashioned sails and wood decking everywhere. Really beautiful. We had a bit of unexpected sunshine on that afternoon, and so the beauty of the limestone rocks coming out of the sea was really spectacular. The cruise was really luxurious, and we befriended some nice fellow travellers. Lets just say they were a little older and more genteel - but great company and nice for us to have some good wine and a bit of pampering. We watched the movie 'The Quiet American' while on board, its a great visiual piece for anyone who wants to get a feel for what Indochina was like, during French colonial times.
After two nights, we came back to Hanoi from Ha Long for an hour or two and then hopped on a plane to Hue. Only an hour or so flight, but we are now officially sick of airports! The touchdown at Hue airport, in the pouring rain, was less than smoothe...when those wheels smacked the tarmac I really thoguht we were done for! Anyway, got collected at the airport, but not before having a chuckle that of course, the only people making a scene and delaying everyones' collection of luggage was a gaggling bunch of Greeks! The same everywhere you go ;)
So we've been in Hue for the last day and a bit. Its been a real shame about the weather, because had it been better, its obvious that Hue is a really pretty little town, with lots to see and loads of places to stroll. But walking around with wind blowing rain into your face just isnt fun, so I'd be lying if I said we'd had a brilliant time. But I guess thats travelling, it cant always be perfect. That said, last night we had a great Indian curry and after a few beers, it doesnt all seem so bad. I am craving some warm weather now, not least of all because I am running out of warmer clothes and am starting to look pretty much the same in every pic! Here's hoping that as we move further South, things brighten up a little.
So train now to Hoi An - takes about 2 hours. And then we'll spend 3 night there. Its a UNESCO world heritage sight, so should be interesting. And at least will give us a chance to catch our breathe and do washing. After that, its off to Ho Chi Minh city (Saigon), where I am sure we'll blog from again, if not sooner.
Thanks for reading, and you can be sure we are missing all our friends,
xxx
I am writing from a grey, wet Hue. Bit of a change from the non-stop sunshine of Laos! We've just had 2 nights here, and are about to catch the train to Hoi An. So just catch you up on the last week or so...
As Andrea mentioned, Hanoi was madness. Such an impressionable place, but not exactly enjoyable. On our last night there we went to see a water pupper theatre show which was brilliant. The puppet movements are so realistic, and even though it was a bit touristy, it was a real must-see. The evening was also enhanced by the fact that we gave into our Western taste cravings and enjoyed some burgers before the show....red meat never tasted so good. I cant say I was sorry to say goodbye to Hanoi, but am so glad to have seen it. Vietnam is a place that has known a lot of turmoil and pain, and it shows in the population - no more so than in Hanoi.
The next morning we were collected by shuttle bus to be taken to Ha Long bay for our 2 night cruise around this eighth wonder of the world. We laughed at the fact that all the other passengers were getting collected from swanky hotels - not the christodoulous! :) After a 4 hour drive we got to the coast and boarded the boat. It was called The Valentine, and it was Valentine's day! Andrea tried to sell the roses and chocolates on our bed as a special gift from him, to me and all the other ladies on teh cruise!!!
The boat is a junk with old fashioned sails and wood decking everywhere. Really beautiful. We had a bit of unexpected sunshine on that afternoon, and so the beauty of the limestone rocks coming out of the sea was really spectacular. The cruise was really luxurious, and we befriended some nice fellow travellers. Lets just say they were a little older and more genteel - but great company and nice for us to have some good wine and a bit of pampering. We watched the movie 'The Quiet American' while on board, its a great visiual piece for anyone who wants to get a feel for what Indochina was like, during French colonial times.
After two nights, we came back to Hanoi from Ha Long for an hour or two and then hopped on a plane to Hue. Only an hour or so flight, but we are now officially sick of airports! The touchdown at Hue airport, in the pouring rain, was less than smoothe...when those wheels smacked the tarmac I really thoguht we were done for! Anyway, got collected at the airport, but not before having a chuckle that of course, the only people making a scene and delaying everyones' collection of luggage was a gaggling bunch of Greeks! The same everywhere you go ;)
So we've been in Hue for the last day and a bit. Its been a real shame about the weather, because had it been better, its obvious that Hue is a really pretty little town, with lots to see and loads of places to stroll. But walking around with wind blowing rain into your face just isnt fun, so I'd be lying if I said we'd had a brilliant time. But I guess thats travelling, it cant always be perfect. That said, last night we had a great Indian curry and after a few beers, it doesnt all seem so bad. I am craving some warm weather now, not least of all because I am running out of warmer clothes and am starting to look pretty much the same in every pic! Here's hoping that as we move further South, things brighten up a little.
So train now to Hoi An - takes about 2 hours. And then we'll spend 3 night there. Its a UNESCO world heritage sight, so should be interesting. And at least will give us a chance to catch our breathe and do washing. After that, its off to Ho Chi Minh city (Saigon), where I am sure we'll blog from again, if not sooner.
Thanks for reading, and you can be sure we are missing all our friends,
xxx
Monday, 13 February 2012
An update from Andreas...
So here goes my first attempt at a blog entry, I am sure I wont be able to compete with Noogy's Saheti honed writing skills but it does say "advenutures of the Christodoulous" so only fair that the original Christodoulou also contribute.
I wont repeat my impressions of places Noogy has spoken about but it has been a really amazing couple of weeks so far, I have not missed that pesky blackberry flashing red light or having keys in my pocket or knowing, (or caring) what day of the week it is. Just feels good to have your senses primed for experiencing different cultures and giving yourself a little bit more perspective as to how this world all fits together.
We are currently in Hanoi, Vietnam, a pretty hectic place that doesn't do chilling out. The incessant short sharp burts of motorcycle hooters defines the soundtrack of this city, a bit like what it might be like listening to Miles Davis warming up for an improv Jazz concert . Tourists are like prey here and whilst you not swatting motorcycles at intersections or turning down offers for "help" from "students" you are busy taking in an experience you are unlikley to forget in a long time.
We have spent two nights here, but we were lucky to get here at all after one of the most eventfull taxi rides of my life, its a long story but involved our driver being completly lost, being left alone in the car at busy intersections whilst or driver ran into buildings to ask directions, 3 point turns into oncoming traffic, multiple stalling of the car engine and threats of physical abuse if he didnt let us and our baggage out the car. All is well that ends well and after a two hour ordeal we arrived safe in our hotel, in a different taxi and with a different driver.
We have done loads and loads of walking around here and its been fascinating, today we strolled past a live cockfight in a quiet residential neighbourhood, saw dogs in cages for all the wrong reasons and toured a couple of large scale public monuments that only communist goverments sign off town planning permission for.
It hasn't been the most restfull or enjoyable, in the traditional sense of the word, couple of days, but I think its the places that make you feel out of your comfort zone that make the biggest impression and leave the most vivid memories, Hanoi has definately been that.
Now to backtrack a bit, we arrived in Hanoi from Luang Prabang in Laos, were we spent three lovely days. We arrived via a three day boat cruise up the mekong river. The cruise is the ideal way to arrive as it resets your stress clock to an appropriate setting for your destination. Luang prabang doesnt do stress, it doesn't do speeding it doesn't do raised voices or loud anything, no speed and sound magazine subscribers in sight and any bouncers looking for work should avoid the place.
As a town, it certainly is no longer undiscovered or untouched by tourism, yet somehow manages to retain its charming character. Our little hotel was close to the river and was very well located to enjoy chilling out in the town for a few days, we borrowed some bikes to explore a bit on bicycle which is a great way to get a feel for a place and slightly less traffic to deal with than our Bangkok cycling experience.
I really enjoyed our time in Laos, I think the dual riverfront setting and background mountain ranges is unique but ultimately its the people that will define an inhabited space and the Laos people we came across were special, so peaceful and tentative, its hard to describe but certainly a destination I am not sorry we included in our itenary.
Tomorrow morning we head off to Ha Long bay, a spectacularly beautiful part of vietnam, it should be an interesting couple of nights. Facebook is banned in Vietnam so we wont be able to check in that way but hope to be in touch again soon. I hope you guys are all well, take care.
Andreas
I wont repeat my impressions of places Noogy has spoken about but it has been a really amazing couple of weeks so far, I have not missed that pesky blackberry flashing red light or having keys in my pocket or knowing, (or caring) what day of the week it is. Just feels good to have your senses primed for experiencing different cultures and giving yourself a little bit more perspective as to how this world all fits together.
We are currently in Hanoi, Vietnam, a pretty hectic place that doesn't do chilling out. The incessant short sharp burts of motorcycle hooters defines the soundtrack of this city, a bit like what it might be like listening to Miles Davis warming up for an improv Jazz concert . Tourists are like prey here and whilst you not swatting motorcycles at intersections or turning down offers for "help" from "students" you are busy taking in an experience you are unlikley to forget in a long time.
We have spent two nights here, but we were lucky to get here at all after one of the most eventfull taxi rides of my life, its a long story but involved our driver being completly lost, being left alone in the car at busy intersections whilst or driver ran into buildings to ask directions, 3 point turns into oncoming traffic, multiple stalling of the car engine and threats of physical abuse if he didnt let us and our baggage out the car. All is well that ends well and after a two hour ordeal we arrived safe in our hotel, in a different taxi and with a different driver.
We have done loads and loads of walking around here and its been fascinating, today we strolled past a live cockfight in a quiet residential neighbourhood, saw dogs in cages for all the wrong reasons and toured a couple of large scale public monuments that only communist goverments sign off town planning permission for.
It hasn't been the most restfull or enjoyable, in the traditional sense of the word, couple of days, but I think its the places that make you feel out of your comfort zone that make the biggest impression and leave the most vivid memories, Hanoi has definately been that.
Now to backtrack a bit, we arrived in Hanoi from Luang Prabang in Laos, were we spent three lovely days. We arrived via a three day boat cruise up the mekong river. The cruise is the ideal way to arrive as it resets your stress clock to an appropriate setting for your destination. Luang prabang doesnt do stress, it doesn't do speeding it doesn't do raised voices or loud anything, no speed and sound magazine subscribers in sight and any bouncers looking for work should avoid the place.
As a town, it certainly is no longer undiscovered or untouched by tourism, yet somehow manages to retain its charming character. Our little hotel was close to the river and was very well located to enjoy chilling out in the town for a few days, we borrowed some bikes to explore a bit on bicycle which is a great way to get a feel for a place and slightly less traffic to deal with than our Bangkok cycling experience.
I really enjoyed our time in Laos, I think the dual riverfront setting and background mountain ranges is unique but ultimately its the people that will define an inhabited space and the Laos people we came across were special, so peaceful and tentative, its hard to describe but certainly a destination I am not sorry we included in our itenary.
Tomorrow morning we head off to Ha Long bay, a spectacularly beautiful part of vietnam, it should be an interesting couple of nights. Facebook is banned in Vietnam so we wont be able to check in that way but hope to be in touch again soon. I hope you guys are all well, take care.
Andreas
Thursday, 9 February 2012
Goodbye Bangkok, hello Mekhong!
Hi everyone
I am writing from the beautiful French colonial of Luang Prabang, in the northern part of Laos. The architecture is gorgeous, and the town is sleepy with lots of provincial charm. We've decided to chill here for another couple of nights, before heading to Vietnam. But just to catch up on where we've been...
Our last day in Bangkok was a real event - we did an all day bicycling tour of the city. I think I probably over-shot the mark, when I realised that it had been probably 20 years since I had last been on a bike! this was especially apparent to me when cycling in crazy Bangkok traffic, in a downpour of torrential rain, with a bus hooting at me! The day was also especially memorable because we got to see parts of the city that the usual tourist trail just doesn't get you to. If anyone is interested, google 'ABC biking tours'.
The next day we caught a flight to Chang Rai (far north of Thailand) and on arrival, caught a 2 hour 'airconditioned' (read fans and open doors) bus to the border town of Chiang Khong. We spent a night on the border, and suprisingly had some really good Mexican (of all things!) for dinner. Early next morning we crossed the Thai-Laos border and boarded our cruise vessel for a 3day/2 night along the Mekhong. Was really nice to be part of a small tour group, and we met and chatted with some lovely people.
Its hard to put into words what its like to be on the river. Scenes out of Rambo came to Andrea's mind, but I just felt a really serene sense of peace. The expanse of water is phenomenal and the jungle greenery is beautiful. We chatted, sipped wine and read our books as the days slipped away. The trip had several stops, including some local villages. It was amazing to really see how some of the tribal people in Laos live, and the children were beautiful. Entranced by my shiny watch and sparkling ring :) Our first night was spent at the Luang Say lodge and the second at Kamu lodge. Both were great, and we spent both evenings sipping sundowners watching the sun set over the river, great meals and early to bed nights!
So yesterday, we arrived in Luang Prabang. We're staying at Villa Nagara - a gorgeous boutique hotel in the old town. We strolled through the night market last night, where I purchased the mandatory loose-fitting cotton trousers - stock standard for any traveller worth their salt! :) Today we saw some of the sights, including watching sunset on Phousi hill, which is the spiritual hub of the town. I have also just enjoyed a sundowner foot massage! Its amazing to see so many young Buddhist monks in the town, so vibrant in their bright saffron robes. Tomorrow we will get up before dawn to see the alms-giving ceremony.
So, all in all, Laos has been amazing. Slower and more peaceful than Thailand, with its own special charms. I'll update again from Vietnam, our flight is scheduled to land in Hanoi on Saturday night and we'll be there for 3 days. Thanks for reading! xxxx
I am writing from the beautiful French colonial of Luang Prabang, in the northern part of Laos. The architecture is gorgeous, and the town is sleepy with lots of provincial charm. We've decided to chill here for another couple of nights, before heading to Vietnam. But just to catch up on where we've been...
Our last day in Bangkok was a real event - we did an all day bicycling tour of the city. I think I probably over-shot the mark, when I realised that it had been probably 20 years since I had last been on a bike! this was especially apparent to me when cycling in crazy Bangkok traffic, in a downpour of torrential rain, with a bus hooting at me! The day was also especially memorable because we got to see parts of the city that the usual tourist trail just doesn't get you to. If anyone is interested, google 'ABC biking tours'.
The next day we caught a flight to Chang Rai (far north of Thailand) and on arrival, caught a 2 hour 'airconditioned' (read fans and open doors) bus to the border town of Chiang Khong. We spent a night on the border, and suprisingly had some really good Mexican (of all things!) for dinner. Early next morning we crossed the Thai-Laos border and boarded our cruise vessel for a 3day/2 night along the Mekhong. Was really nice to be part of a small tour group, and we met and chatted with some lovely people.
Its hard to put into words what its like to be on the river. Scenes out of Rambo came to Andrea's mind, but I just felt a really serene sense of peace. The expanse of water is phenomenal and the jungle greenery is beautiful. We chatted, sipped wine and read our books as the days slipped away. The trip had several stops, including some local villages. It was amazing to really see how some of the tribal people in Laos live, and the children were beautiful. Entranced by my shiny watch and sparkling ring :) Our first night was spent at the Luang Say lodge and the second at Kamu lodge. Both were great, and we spent both evenings sipping sundowners watching the sun set over the river, great meals and early to bed nights!
So yesterday, we arrived in Luang Prabang. We're staying at Villa Nagara - a gorgeous boutique hotel in the old town. We strolled through the night market last night, where I purchased the mandatory loose-fitting cotton trousers - stock standard for any traveller worth their salt! :) Today we saw some of the sights, including watching sunset on Phousi hill, which is the spiritual hub of the town. I have also just enjoyed a sundowner foot massage! Its amazing to see so many young Buddhist monks in the town, so vibrant in their bright saffron robes. Tomorrow we will get up before dawn to see the alms-giving ceremony.
So, all in all, Laos has been amazing. Slower and more peaceful than Thailand, with its own special charms. I'll update again from Vietnam, our flight is scheduled to land in Hanoi on Saturday night and we'll be there for 3 days. Thanks for reading! xxxx
Friday, 3 February 2012
Update from Bangkok (the storm post the calm!)
Hi everyone,
So after a blissful week of relaxing on the beaches, we've arrived in Bangkok! wow - bit of a slap in the face. But in a good way. So backtracking a bit...
We flew from Singapore to Krabi and caught a longtail to Railay bay. You can only access the bay from a boat...needless to say I had to wade onto the beach with my 15kg backpack, in my trousers! We had an amazing time there. The water is warm and jade green, and the beaches were soft white sand - jealous yet? We ate loads of sea food and fresh fruit and just spent our few days chilling on the beach, kayaking and enjoying the vibe. A good mix of people from hippy tourists to families. After 2 nights, we headed for Koh Lanta. A long thin island, also in the Krabi province. The accomodation was amazing (The Houben)- didnt exactly feel like we were slumming it, but it was my birthday! More island-vibing, including scootering around, massages, visiting different beaches, long sunset cocktails and of course, plenty plenty thai food. So our first experience of Thailand was definitely a chilled one!
The Thai people are amazing. Smile all the time and no aggression or tension is ever shown - so easy to see why people come here and then just never leave.
At the moment we're in Bangkok. Arrived last night and here for another 2 nights. Its a totally different vibe. The chaos and crazyness just somehow seem to work though. And once you get used ot the traffic, the smog and the god-almighty humid heat, it kind of grows on you. We ate at a local night market, just literally sitting on little tables on the street - so cool! Been doing lots of sightseeing - the typical stuff (Grand palace, Wat Pho, museums) but actually, I think its more just the vibe of the place that is really what hooks you. This is a city of 11 million people....and you can feel it. Will update more soon! Am sure Bangkok has lots more in store for us.
xxxx
So after a blissful week of relaxing on the beaches, we've arrived in Bangkok! wow - bit of a slap in the face. But in a good way. So backtracking a bit...
We flew from Singapore to Krabi and caught a longtail to Railay bay. You can only access the bay from a boat...needless to say I had to wade onto the beach with my 15kg backpack, in my trousers! We had an amazing time there. The water is warm and jade green, and the beaches were soft white sand - jealous yet? We ate loads of sea food and fresh fruit and just spent our few days chilling on the beach, kayaking and enjoying the vibe. A good mix of people from hippy tourists to families. After 2 nights, we headed for Koh Lanta. A long thin island, also in the Krabi province. The accomodation was amazing (The Houben)- didnt exactly feel like we were slumming it, but it was my birthday! More island-vibing, including scootering around, massages, visiting different beaches, long sunset cocktails and of course, plenty plenty thai food. So our first experience of Thailand was definitely a chilled one!
The Thai people are amazing. Smile all the time and no aggression or tension is ever shown - so easy to see why people come here and then just never leave.
At the moment we're in Bangkok. Arrived last night and here for another 2 nights. Its a totally different vibe. The chaos and crazyness just somehow seem to work though. And once you get used ot the traffic, the smog and the god-almighty humid heat, it kind of grows on you. We ate at a local night market, just literally sitting on little tables on the street - so cool! Been doing lots of sightseeing - the typical stuff (Grand palace, Wat Pho, museums) but actually, I think its more just the vibe of the place that is really what hooks you. This is a city of 11 million people....and you can feel it. Will update more soon! Am sure Bangkok has lots more in store for us.
xxxx
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